LIIMITED EDITION HUNTSMAN SUITING

Great cutters are born with the talent and one of the greatest was Colin Hammick, head cutter at Huntsman between the 1950s and 70s and largely responsible for establishing the Huntsman style – lean, waisted, with high armhole, well structured and button-one. It was a style that attracted some of Hollywood’s finest and helped establish Huntsman as the premier bespoke house on the Row during his time there.

In recognition of his contribution to Huntsman’s reputation, the firm introduced the Hammick Mohair suiting in Summer last year – and such was the response to this navy classic that it sold out in under two months. Woven in a blend of 73/27 merino/mohair, in a 11/12oz weight, it is just the sort of cloth that Hammick himself, seen right, favoured, tailoring beautifully.

To meet demand from customers who missed it last year, another piece has been commissioned this year, in a new shade. Just 18 suit lengths are available from a piece, so this is very much a limited edition. Contact Peter Smith peter.smith@h-huntsman.co.uk

Rather more colourful is the latest collection of tweeds in Huntsman's exclusive designs. These richly colourful jacket and coating cloths are named after the legendary Scottish Links Championship Golf Courses – Gleneagles, Muirfield, Troon and Turnberry – and reflect the colours of the Highlands.

And there are some new flannels from Fox that illustrate their commitment to using more British wool, with a lighter grey shade included.

LIQUID SILK JACKETING

For those men who appreciate the aesthetic quality of a luxury cloth that comes in conservative mode the latest development from Scabal should be irresistible.

Like liquid silk, this vicuna jacketing follows Scabal’s 100 per cent worsted spun vicuna suiting, launched a couple of years ago. This one is 97 per cent vicuna, 3per cent silk.

“It is difficult to spin worsted vicuna  because vicuna hair is mostly very short,” explains Nora Kraemer of Scabal’s fabric design department.

“So the hair for this jacketing is sorted by hand, selecting the longest fibres for the hi-tech worsted spinning process.”

The earlier suiting was only available in natural, black and blue but the jacketing comes in a range of colours and designs, showing five herringbones and five windowpane checks on a herringbone ground weave.

All are in classic shades of brown,  dark grey, green-grey, navy blue and black.

It will be available at tailors later this year.

TAILORS WORK WITH MILLS

THE YOUNG tailoring house, Byrne & Burge, is committed to offering some exclusive cloths, working closely with selected mills to achieve some particularly attractive results. Its run by Joshua Byrne and his wife Emmeline, and has recently brought in some distinctive cloths that are right for the period feel now developing. See examples in Savile Row Style Magazine in March.