GLITTERING GIFTS AT SOCIETY JEWELLERS

While the rest of the world is preoccupied with celebrity status, Savile Row continues to maintain a vow of silence over its illustrious customers. Some houses may have backing from showbiz clients to reveal styling inclinations, but where the rest of private customers are concerned, the Row is resolutely schtum.

A similar veil of secrecy protects the exclusive customers who walk through the doors of Bentley & Skinner, exclusive jewellers now ensconced in splendid new premises on Piccadilly. And a suitably glittering crowd gathered to celebrate their opening this autumn.

The Skinner half of this firm dates back to 1880, supplying jewellery to the Royal Family during Queen Victoria’s reign. Bentley & Co was established in 1934 by the present managing director’s late uncle, John Sheldon, a jewel connoisseur of Russian descent, who built up a magnificent collection that attracted world-wide interest when sold at Sotheby’s some years back. The two names came together just thirteen years ago in a marriage blessed with shared talents and mutual belief in personal service.

Above, a Victorian snake bangle, set with emerald, diamonds and rubies; below, the diamond encrusted skull that Bentley & Skinner made for Damien Hirst.

This pedigree and a speciality in fine antique pieces has ensured that this family-run business continues to attract a well-heeled and discerning clientele. But unlike others, it prides itself on being a friendly and approachable institution that welcomes all customers.

“I love the fact that this is one shop, not part of a chain, that our staff are friendly, and that we build up a close relationship with our customers,” said Omar Vaja, a director who has been with the company for some 16 years.

“We become something of a family friend, we make jewellery for successive generations. And we will of course be discreet.”

The company has its own workshop on-site, where its exclusive bespoke items are made. Plans are afoot to launch a small range of jewellery under their name, all one-off designs made here, that will be sold in the Piccadilly shop.

For the bespoke creations, inspiration comes from a mixtures of existing pieces, a customer’s preferences, and perhaps a little judicious advice from Omar. He has a passion for this craft and appreciates the many fine antique items that they sell.

“On one occasion, a customer brought in an antique brooch that she did not wear and wanted to break up to have made into other items,” he explains. “It was a beautiful piece and I suggested that we make it into a pendant, so that its antique craftsmanship was retained and it could even go back to being a brooch. She was delighted with the idea – and I was, in that we didn’t have to break it up.”

Above, a pair of Victorian gold cufflinks set with diamonds; below, diamond-set 18carat gold dragonfly earrings; bottom, Victorian diamond bangle, set with nine old brilliant-cut diamonds.

The company’s skills attracted world-wide attention when it made the famous diamond-studded skull for Damien Hirst, a piece that took the workroom two years to complete. Such a crowd-puller is somewhat removed from their more usual bespoke pieces, with engagement rings and bracelets, pendants and necklaces the main orders.

“Tiaras are not so much in demand now, of course,” Omar admits, “but we make necklaces that may be mounted onto frames for tiara wear.”

Changes in modern tastes have lead to a restrained increase in male jewellery.

“Cuff links and signet rings are the usual requests,” he says, “but some ear studs are being worn and bracelets. And we have also made specially crafted chain pendants for middle aged English gentlemen!”

Customers are mainly English but others come from as far afield as Japan, Australia and New Zealand, as well as the US and Russia. And Omar reports  new interest in antiques from Arab customers.

“In the past, they haven’t wanted to wear something that had been worn by someone else. But now they are appreciating antique craftsmanship, particularly the younger generation. And they understand that what they may have is a one-off creation with historic appeal.”

It isn’t too late to have something made for Christmas “though it would need to be something fairly simple,” said Omar. “We have been making more intricate pieces for special presents since September but we could still manage to create some beautiful earrings or a pendant,” he promised.

Alternatively, there’s a glittering trove of antique jewellery from which to choose, with perhaps an exciting past. If only gems could talk.
www.bentley-skinner.co.uk