DRESSING UP FOR THE SEASON

The London Season is upon us. This giddy whirl of sporting endeavour, cultural indulgence, party excess and dressing up is England’s answer to the religious-based festivals that take place on the Continent.

It kicked off, or rather splashed off, at the end of March with the Oxford and Cambridge boat race on the Thames, but May sees it really get underway. Test cricket at Lords, the Chelsea Flower Show, and opera at Glydebourne are three of the long-standing May engagements, though plenty of nouveau fests are being added all the time.

Whether the excuse for each occasion is sporting or cultural, all have their own attendant social gatherings and style requirements. Once upon a time, these events provided the market place for marriageable young socialites, but now most attract eclectic crowds intent upon having a Jolly Good Time.

There has been much criticism of the way dress standards have slipped in the face of this onslaught by the hoi polloi. Young ladies dressed in attire more suitable for a disco have invaded Royal Ascot and other once exclusive gatherings - but one has to admire their hardiness, for these events are mainly open to the vagaries of the English climate.

But what is encouraging is that they and their young male companions recognise that dressing up is part of the agenda. Tailors have found more and more young men ordering dress coats for the Season, where but a short time ago the dress coat’s days seemed numbered.

Given a little more time and practice, and who knows, we could see a more general revival of style appreciation and the delights of dressing up that has been missing from the young male scene for too long.

Certainly, the Season provides the impetus. From morning dress at Ascot to brilliant blazers at Henley, dinner jackets at Glydebourne to linen suits and panamas at Goodwood, the Season is a varied test of a man's wardrobe.

For the man who likes to make a statement, the white dress suit at top is a glamourous option. By Favourbrook, it might be worn at a late summer evening dress occasion - or for a wedding. This is in ivory wool but Favourbrook are known for rather more opulent and colourful jackets and coats. Go to www.favourbrook.com

From Gieves & Hawkes comes the black coat, pale blue d.b. vest and striped trousers, above. This outfit is in their ready-to-wear collection but may be ordered bespoke.

Right, classic s.b. gold-buttoned blazer from Potkansky, of the type favoured at Lords and the Chelsea Flower Show.

And left, classic panama hat to go with a blazer or maybe a linen suit at Goodwood, a handmade straw that may be rolled up to fit in the carry-case.

HITTING THE HIGH SPOTS

JUST AS the home crowd of the Season has extended over the years, so too has its international aspect. Included on the main calender of events produced by one of its sponsors, Veuve Clicquot champagne, are such attractions as the White Nights Festival in St Petersburg, the Monaco Grand Prix, the Perati Literary Festival in Brazil, various Fashion Weeks, and the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

Such additions, splendid though they may be, are clearly not part of the authentic London Season. Indeed, they extend it to way beyond the traditional closing date of August 12,  known as the Glorious Twelfth, when everyone who was anyone used to leave town to go shooting in the country. 

The dates listed here are selected as high spots of the true London Season (even though some are held outside London).

May
6 – 10   Test Cricket at Lords,  first Test played here in 1884
19 – 23 Chelsea Flower Show, first staged in 1862
21 – Aug 30 Glydebourne Opera - youngster at 75 this year.
June
5 – 6  The Derby dates back to 1780
8 – Aug 16  Royal Academy Summer Exhibition, held since 1768.
16 – 20 Royal Ascot began in 1711
22 – July 5  Wimbledon first meeting 1877
23 -  July 19 Gold Cup Polo since 1910
July
1 – 5 Henley Royal Regatta started in 1839
28 – Aug 1 Glorious Goodwood racing since 1802, a more casual dress code established here by Edward Vll in the early 1800s, linen suits and panama favoured, as here.
August
1 -8  Cowes Week began 1826