ROMANTIC APPEAL OF LONG OVERCOATS

While global warming dominated the news, the overcoat lay neglected at the back of the male wardrobe, forsaken in favour of skimpy jackets and skinny raincoats. But as the economic gloom deepened and harsh depression combined with harsh winter,  the need for a cocoon of warming protection has seen them revived.

Overcoats are back on the style agenda and magnificent, enveloping, extravagant creations they are too. In tweeds, or smooth, dark worsteds, crombies or cheviots, the versions that have emerged this winter are designed to see out the recession, however long it takes.

The ultimate caped greatcoat isn’t being ordered – yet - but long, double breasted styles favoured by the military, with generous collars and cuffs and flapped pockets, have been popular at Richard Anderson. They have had their own cheviot tweed designs produced, including some eye-catching windowpane checks, as well as more subtle patterns. Now, they are launching a ready-to-wear range of such coats – as here.

At one time, the elegant topcoat, pictured left, might have been described as a coat for City slickers but as they are now as out of favour as the overcoat used to be, this reverts to being a formal town coat. 

By Anderson & Sheppard, it is in a navy blue herringbone, shaped with darts to the back half belt, and is the sort of coat that warrants respect – both from others and its wearer.

It is also the sort of coat that younger wearers may opt to wear just over shirt or sweater and trousers. Though essentially formal, it ties in with a trend for long coats that mixes formal and casual - a kind of dashing romantic look.

The classic chesterfield overcoat, below, in a shadow stripe herringbone, is from Udeshi (see overpage), very much for town.

The Earl of Chesterfield is credited with inventing the Chesterfield coat, and also the Chesterfield button-back sofa. Its slight shaping and inset sleeves are the two main features, as it does not have to be single breasted or have the fly front or the velvet collar that some maintain are Chesterfield requisites.

Initially, it was the fact that it did not have a waist seam that made the Chesterfield different from other overcoats of the day, and the fly front was an early style detail. The velvet collar was added as a mark of respect by aristocratic wearers during the French Revolution.

This version features velvet trim on the pocket flaps and breast pocket to match the collar.