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FOR MEN WHO KNOW BEST

NUMBER ONE ON THE ROW

Nelson, the Prince of Wales, David Beckham, David Niven…a galaxy of star portraits line the walls of Gieves & Hawkes grand stairwell at their imposing Number 1 Savile Row headquarters, testimony to an illustrious clientele over the years.

With a history that dates back to 1785, ghdemobsuit.jpgand a modern business that boasts 21 shops throughout the UK plus major licencing operations in the Far East, it would be fair to say that Gieves (as it is often referred to) is the most high profile of Savile Row tailors.

Bespoke tailoring is necessarily a small part of these activities but nonetheless the lynchpin, marketing director Julian Boow maintains. “In all our shops, we make sure there is someone capable of measuring a customer." This applies also to their outlets in Hong Kong and China, where measurements are taken and sent back to the London h.q.

But if bespoke remains the foundation of the business, its ready-to-wear is an increasingly important global brand, and the latest collection, just launched for Summer, has drawn heavily on the company’s heritage.

ghgreatcoat.jpgThe ‘Archive’ collection ranges from swashbuckling Navy greatcoats (left) , oiled wool seaman’s sweaters, and classic reefers and pea jackets to slick formal business suits, cashmere jackets and trim covert coats.  And there is a capsule collection of limited edition evening items, which are hand made on site, giving a luxury Savile Row finish.

Shawl collars are important on the chunky knitwear designs and also featured on a  sleek tailored jacket, the collar edge stitched down, seen as a casual option with jeans or as a dressy style for evening. There’s an eye-catching silk screen printed suede jacket – pity about the waist seam – a wonderful unlined pea coat in a double faced cashmere that will retail around ghcovert.jpg£2,000, and a stunning chalk-striped grey flannel suit (see above) that is a dead ringer of a 1940s demob style (for young readers, servicemen received a suit on demobilisation).

The coat on the left is a classic country covert style, as referred to on the preceding pages, impeccably transformed for town wear, in a melange thornproof wool with burgundy top collar.

The designs featured in this collection may well provide inspiration for some bespoke customers.  And they may also be tempted by a new collection of jewellery items – vintage watches, cuff links, rings and a silver cigar box engraved with the Gieves & Hawkes crown emblem. Go to www.gievesand hawkes.com

 

BEIJING THROUGH DARK GLASSES

pumaglasses.jpgEven for those whose fastest pace is a sedate jog in the park, these Sprint glasses designed by Puma for Olympic athletes are guaranteed to stay in place, featuring rubber trim on the sides to ensure grip.

Top sportswear name Puma are official outfitters for a number of teams and athletes pumaunisex.jpgat the Beijing Games and have designed these specs to go with the outfits. Sprint, above, is available in black or grey and Twist, bottom, is a unisex style, in black or yellow, and also, say Puma, built for speed. There are other styles in the Beijing Collection, priced at £75.

 

 
 

Summer 11 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::

 
 
contact Home - Contents in brief with pictures
   
contact Style 1 - Survey reveals tastes of Savile Row's customers.
   
contact Style 2 - The country influence on British male wardrobes
   
contact Style 3 - Country style leaders
   
contact Style 4 - The Horse and Hunt sets the pace
   
contact Style 5 - Number One on the Row plays up heritage
   
contact Grooming - Fast freezing latest health fad from Japan
   
contact Textiles - Country Estate checks the first camouflage creation
   
contact Drinks - Country pubs get support from Prince Charles
   
contact Creature Comforts - Animal interest spread from the farm
   
contact Cars - De luxe package for car racing fanatics
   
contact Home Luxury - Bespoke furniture and outdoor kitchens
   
contact Gifts - Stockings rather than socks
   
contact Travel - Living the life of a Laird in the Grand Country Manner
   
contact Contact - Details and registration
   
contact Tailors of Savile Row - listing of top tailors and interviews
 
     
 

:: MORE IN MENSWEAR ::

 

AN INDICATION of increased interest in menswear is shown in the increased numbers of students concentrating upon menswear design in courses at the major design colleges.

This is especially evident at Kingston College, which recently won top award at the British Fashion Council Colleges Open Day.

Britain is blessed with the best and most numerous of design colleges in the world, and Kingston has long been one of the most successful. And in this year’s crop of their student portfolios on display at the Open Day, a third were shown to be focused upon menswear design, as opposed to the odd two or three in other years.

“It just seems that menswear’s time has come,” said Andrew Levi, one of the consultants on the course and himself a successful designer. “And though it isn’t classical tailoring, the emphasis is often upon a modern interpretation of the classics.”

Name to watch for is Oliver Ruuger (see Style p3), and Peter Perritt gives a new twist to jodhpurs and other classics.