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Savile Row shows how to put the glitz and glamour back into the evening scene

Pulling on a T-shirt and stepping into torn jeans sequinsuit.jpgcan’t match tying up a white tie and brushing off a set of tails.

Anticipation and preparation are half the joy of going out on the town and though white tie occasions are now few and far between, the pleasure and confidence given by dressing up in evening wear is what good clothing is all about.

So, as the party season gets underway, let’s hope more young men are rediscovering these delights. Certainly, tailors report increasing demand for dinner jackets and suits, especially from those young City boys, splashing their cash on clothes for their evening high life. 

Classic black may be the benchmark for most men and most occasions but, as shown here, Savile Row has its wild side too. Its a brave soul who will turn up at a formal do in a white dinner suit - but for clubs, dining and wining, white and coloured options are made powelleve.jpgby the Row's tailors, many for showbiz names, plenty for young men keen to attract attention.

Scarlet sequin suit above made by Richard Anderson for artist Sebastian Horsley. Shawl-collared white suit left by Mark Powell.

But even the classic black dinner jacket/suit is subject to subtle style variations, making updated versions desirable - though judging by many seen at seasonal events, its often a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. Not so at the annual tailors' get-together, in February, which is easily the best-dressed male occasion of the year.  

Shoulders for this season are soft and natural, there's some waist suppression, and lapels perhaps a little wider to emphasis the slight shaping, while a counter tendency is towards a skinnier shape with narrow lapels.   Though black remains the classic choice, variety is provided by cloth with a self stripe patterning or a nortondj.jpgslight sheen or some texture.

Muted coloured versions, particularly for jackets, may be worn - but they need a man with personal style to carry them off to ensure that the wearer is not mistaken for a waiter. White at formal occasions is only for summer.

degedress.jpgTrousers are straight and lean, with one stripe down the side – it is a double stripe on the trousers of a tail suit.

Wing collared shirts continue to be popular, though unfortunately often look awful, the points sticking out when they should be behind the bow tie, and made-up ties are all too obvious from the clip that is visible above the collar of the coat.  Better to go for a plain collared dress shirt.  If with studs, they should be black. 

A boutonniere adds a note of colour.  But never, ever, a made up flower arrangement or a flower held in a small glass phial.  A plain red or white carnation, with the flower’s calyx pushed through the buttonhole so that the flower is flush with the lapel is correct.

Classic dinner suit above right by Norton and Son; gold embroidered shirwani dress jacket in black wool worsted barathea, left, from Dege & Skinner, matching trousers with a gold lace stripe.




  Winter 08 edition

:: SAVILE ROW Style Magazine ::




contact Home – Contents in brief with pictures
contact Style 1 – Party Time - Row razzle dazzle as well as trad
contact Style 2 – The Younger Set - youthful outlook for the Row
contact Style 3 – The Younger Set continued
contact Style 4 – Winter's Top Topcoat - the Chesterfield
contact Grooming - Easy tans and protected pates
contact TextilesWool fights back
contact VSOP Very Special Opulent Presents for those with "a distaste for the mass produced".
contact VSOP 2 - Book the world plus erotic chocs
contact VSOP 3 - Liquid gold and fine champagne
contact VSOP 4 - Lord Cardigan's luxury with French undies


contact Drink – Its Cocktail Time
contact Gifts Bustieres and Best Book
contact Travel – New film inspires Indian travel
contact Culture - Photography art form spawns books.
contact Contact Details and registration
contact Tailors of Savile Row – listing of top tailors and interviews
contact Archive – Back Issues




ABSEILLING down the face of the Victoria & Albert Museum may seem a pretty amazing way to show off your Jockeys – but that is how some new seamless underpants were flaunted to crowds  in West London this autumn.

A team of daredevil acrobats went up and down a ‘catwalk’ extending from the roof of the V& A’s façade down to pavement level, jumping, cartwheeling and dancing in a spectacular presentation that stopped the traffic on Brompton Road and riveted watching crowds.

The Jockeys come in 90/10% cotton/spandex, with an 8-way stretch, with stretchable seams too, an anatomically shaped leg edging and seamless waistband, to provide the ultimate in comfy pants. They clearly did not restrict the acrobatic movements of the daredevil models.