Savile Row may be seen as a staid, hide-bound bastion of masculine tradition. In fact, it’s a pretty lively place beneath that dignified exterior and attracts plenty of new recruits, male and female, both customers and practitioners.
Latest addition to the list of those making fully bespoke suits is ‘40 Savile Row’, a company that arrived here some years ago dedicated to making fine shirts.
Since then, the company has moved on to made-to-measure suits and now, to meet demand from customers and because owner Jeffrey Doltis has come to appreciate the quality of bespoke, it is launching a bespoke service.
To do so, they have acquired the services of Adam Savvides, long time practitioner of the craft. Initially trained at the Tailor & Cutter Academy, under the revered Archie Whife, he has worked for various bespoke houses over the years, including Airey and Wheeler and Timothy Everest, and run his own business.
A fervent advocate of handmade attention to detail, he will provide 40 Savile Row with classically tailored suits – “but we will of course do what the customer wants – if he wants bright lining, then he will have it.”
Newcomer to the Row is Jasper Littman, a young man who acquired experience of the male clothing scene in a number of top retail houses in the area, before training stints at Gieves & Hawkes and Kilgour.
“I just acquired a passion for fine clothes and decided to set up my own business.”
Now, he has established a loyal band of customers, many within the City, who he will visit at their offices or homes, or he has facilities within Holland & Sherry's offices on the Row. “I will take measurements,” he says, but has the services of Savile Row-trained cutter and coatmaker for the actual making. “I take the cutter along to fittings.” Clearly, there are plenty of other young men out there keen to join the Row, as he receives applications each week from numbers eager to be taken on.
New development at Anthony Hewitt will see managing director Ravi Tailor making bespoke suits for the young fashion retailer Revisu. This company took over the spacious shop premises at Number 9 that used to be Hewitt's, who have retained their workrooms and fitting facilities in the back.
Revisu is an outre fashion house, much favoured by rich young men prepared to pay for such luxuries as cashmere jeans at £950. They have other shops and now will be offering the bespoke option, with Ravi providing the tailoring. He is pleased with the new agreement, which he sees taking him into a younger fashion area,